Planting the garden
The current economic crisis has motivated many Americans to revisit gardening as a means of mitigating food costs. Further incentive is derived from the increasing instances of bacteria outbreak in foods that emanate from far off fields. For some people it will be simply a matter of accessing knowledge gained in childhood, often stored away amidst memories of picking stones and weeding. Others will be growing their own food for the first time in their lives. We are witnessing a revolution in backyard growing. According to an article in USA Today (2/20/09) “the number of homes growing vegetables will jump more than 40% this year compared with just two years ago, projects the National Gardening Association, a non-profit organization for gardening education.” It feels like a post-modern victory garden movement. The collective enemy this time is the frustration of rising food costs and the susceptibility to agri-business pathogens. While the idea of planting a garden is simple and exciting the execution can be a bit more challenging.
The first thing to consider when planting a garden is what are your goals? Am I growing to can and freeze for the winter? Am I growing to have fresh immediate produce all summer and fall? Am I growing specifically to enjoy the taste of fresh tomatoes or cucumbers? The answer to this question will dictate how much space you wish to plant. You only need a tiny plot to produce a remarkable amount of food. If you have not grown before (or it has been a long time) start with something smaller and reasonable. In an average backyard a 15’x 20’ plot is plenty large enough to produce abundantly. If you are fortunate enough to own some acreage perhaps something larger would be possible. There is a large difference between plowing and tending a garden. For those who lack real space a container garden on a porch or patio can also be productive. The goal of your garden should directly relate to the size.
Starting a garden can be arduous. Location is crucial. Choosing an area that is on the south side of your house is ideal. Here the garden will get full day sun and if you are trying to grow many hot crops (definition below) you will need all the sun you can get in Up-state. Think about the location of your watering source. It is a pain to trundle water a long distance. Catching rainwater is a great way to cut down on the water bill. If you are turning over new land that has been grass or field there are various potential methods. The easiest perhaps is the roto-tiller. If you are intending to grow indefinitely this is a great purchase for the family. They can be found used locally, purchased new or rented from different entities. If you are in a neighborhood that is growing, communal use and investment makes sense. If you have the person power and the will a simple pitch fork can be used. Simply sink the fork twelve inches, remove the massive chunk of sod and flip it. While grueling this is a great way to add some hardcore caloric burn to gardening. More eco-friendly and less laborious means of starting a plot involve covering the desired planting area with something such as layered newspaper or black plastic. The grass underneath will die off and you can plant directly into that medium. Many organic leftists argue this is the most atmospherically friendly means as less carbon is released versus massive soil penetration. Another popular style of growing is the raised bed. Traditional gardens are ground level, raised beds are exactly that. Often made with railroad ties or large logs the concept involves creating a bed or planting area above the surface of the ground. They are easier to tend (weed, plant, cultivate) and often are considered more aesthetic within the yard. Simply google raised beds for some visual ideas. If you are using the traditional method clearing your plot of sod and reaching the soil beneath is the key, once finished you can begin to plant.
When you have designated the area you want to plant and you have cleared the sod off you may want to consider a few things. Depending on where you live deer, woodchucks, rabbits, squirrels and other neighbors may present challenges. My garden in the city of Elmira would seem immune to these critters. In fact living near the Chemung River woodchucks are voracious consumers of produce. I spent two days building a fence. The key with woodchucks and rabbits is to sink chicken wire two feet deep into the ground (perhaps 1.5 feet) and angle it away from the garden. This prevents them from digging under you fence. While this may seem time consuming it can save you major frustration and heartache later in the season. A four foot fence is adequate for most poachers. If deer are an issue consult your local cooperative extension for some advice. There are many theories on keeping deer out, dogs and guns are probably the most successful. They must be applied legally of course. Electric fencing may be another option.
After the sod is removed take time to remove any large rocks and plant debris. Think about paths through the garden where you will be able to walk. You do not want to walk on your beds (planting areas) very often; it compacts the soil and prevents nutrient circulation and water penetration. As we approach June and soil temperatures rise the number of different cultivars available to plant grows. Planting certain “hot crops” too early will almost certainly result in failure. June first is a good general date in our zone (planting area designated by average first and last frost) to plant most hot crops (tomatoes, squashes, melons, eggplant, okra, pumpkins, corn, beans, peppers). These seeds need the soil temperature to be warm in order to germinate. Other seeds will germinate at much cooler temperatures, we call these plants “cole crops”. Radishes, beets, peas, spinach, cabbage, broccoli, greens, and parsnips are all hardy vegetables. This means they can take colder temperature and in fact are more productive in colder weather. Cole crops can actually be planted twice each season, in the spring and late summer. As they require less time to reach maturity growers can enjoy two separate seasons.
Seeds are the last consideration. They can be expensive and this year increasingly hard to find. The internet is a great source. I consider anything 2$ a pack or more expensive. Personally I order from Pinetree seed company out of Maine. While I will pick up seed arbitrarily during the course of the year this is my main source. Saving seeds is a great way to lower yearly costs. Be certain to read the package for instruction on spacing and tendencies. Some plants like peas, beans, squash and cucumbers can be grown vertically up supports (trellis). This affords more space within the garden. After planting mark the rows with something identifiable to remember what is there. Remember as your plants grow some will block the sun from others. For lettuce this is a good thing, for melons this is bad. Think about the positioning of plants within the garden. Upon planting water thoroughly and wait for germination. Once your plants appear MULCH immediately. Mulching is the act of covering the ground in between the rows. It moderates soil temperature, preserves water, prevents compacting and erosion and perhaps most importantly it helps control weeds. Straw, leaves, grass clippings (not green) even newspaper can be used as a mulch. I like to use material that when worked into my soil will ensure decades of healthy loam. Next article we will talk about maintain the garden and what are known as heirloom vegetables. In my first article I talked about perennials, this is a good time to plant sage, chive, horseradish and other herbs that come back for you each year. Get growing!
